Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and tourists alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive list of world cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city comes as no surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its essence: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – hidden treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and involved. The cook beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though note that their children are reluctant to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people worldwide to discover these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
